Saranac India Brown Ale

Review Date   2/18/2009

                                             

I am not so sure I agree with the notion of an India Brown Ale. Mind you, I understand the premise. American brewers seem to want to throw extra hops at everything and add an "Imperial" or "India" moniker to so denote. Why not brown ales, then? Toss in some extra hops with your kettle of brown ale, and voila: IBA.

Thing is, the style already exists, and has existed, for quite some time. It's called American Brown, though, not India Brown, and I think that's a more apt description. The spicy-hopped Brooklyn Brown Ale is perhaps the classic example, along with Pete's Wicked Ale in its heyday (the latter seems these days to be a less impressive version of its old self, but still retains a vestige of hop bite).

Still, Saranac wanted to include an India Brown Ale with their winter sampler this year, and who am I to argue with them? They're hardly the first to offer such a style, joining Dogfish Head and Terrapin in that category. They use the "3C" hop varieties, otherwise known as Columbus, Centennials, and Cascades (interestingly enough, Brooklyn Brown features Cascades, too, and the bottled version is actually contract brewed by Saranac for the Brooklyn Brewery). Fuggles are used too, and malts include Marris Otter and Crystal.

Saranac India Brown Ale pours to a russet reddish to very light brown color with a medium creamy head formation and an herbal, spicy hop nose. A fine layer of Brussels lace clings to the sides of my glass, and a steady stream of tiny bubbles rises from bottom to top of my glass endlessly. A sip reveals a palate with a gentle touch of caramel malt laced with toasted nuts and chocolate.

Did I mention the hops? There be hops here, matey. You'll pick them up right away, of course, at first permeating the brew with an herbal, tea-like aroma, then becoming increasingly bitter into the finish. At last, it deposits a lingering bitter buzz on the tongue. That's the whole point, of course, a brown ale that's very hoppy like an IPA.

To my taste, this one needs a bit more work. I like it well enough, but it leans more to the hops than the dark malt, and I find more of the IPA aspect than brown ale (much more). I don't think it's quite so well executed as, say, Dogfish Head Indian Brown Ale.

And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.

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