I got the news yesterday: the Infinium had arrived. Infinium Ale that is, a collaboration two years in the making between old world and new, combining the strengths and skills of Weihenstephan (the oldest active brewery in the world) and Boston Beer, one of the newest. The rumors had been flying for some time that these two were up to something, though the details were always foggy at best.

As the release date got closer, though, we learned more and more: this would be the beer world's answer to champagne. It would be brewed according to the German Reinheitsgebot, or beer purity law, restricting the ingredients to malt, hops, water, and yeast. Still, the master brewers from both companies manipulated their brewing techniques to squeeze as much fruitiness as possible out of their ale yeast. While this is decidedly un-Teutonic, it's typical of the new world brewing swagger Boston Beer is famous for.

The result: Samuel Adams Infinium Ale, a new and exciting entry to the beer world. At 10.3% alcohol by volume, Infinium is well suited to the frigid depths of a winter's eve.

Certainly, the presentation is excellent, with a bottle fairly approximating the finest champagne. The bottle is fashioned after a champagne fifth, complete with concave bottom, Victorian-era logo, and foil wrapped neck. Unable to wait any longer, I tore the foil from the neck of the bottle with much alacrity, untwisted the tie on the metal crown cage, and pulled desperately at the cork.

All to no avail. The cork was in there but good, and all my efforts to remove it with my bare hands were as naught. I had to resort to a pair of pliers, at which point I was able to pry the mushroom-shaped cork out of the bottle to a resounding "pop"! A light mist emerged from the mouth of the bottle. I proceeded to sniff the cork, but like a frustrated Yukon Cornelius I got nothing.

Pouring the beer into my glass was another matter. The pale golden color tinged with a hint of amber and steady procession of bubbles form top to bottom of the glass recalled a glass of champagne, to be sure. The foamy white head was a bit more robust than your average bubbly, however.

Taking a whiff, some decidedly sticky sweet malt notes laced with soft fruit and grassy hops came through most immediately. Taking a sip, there's a sweet, sticky maltiness up front that's almost cloying in nature. Lots of fruit flavors emerge, apple, pear, and vinous grape. The beer becomes a bit acidic as it approaches the finish, and along with the warming alcohol that helps to leave it very dry indeed.

As much as Sam Adams Infinium Ale is like a fine champagne, it's also not like a fine champagne. Infinium is nowhere near as crisp as champagne can be, and the slightly herbal hops in the finish set it apart as well. Even if they're rather subtle.

But don't panic: this is intended to be beer first and foremost, albeit a beer that approximates champagne. The folks at Boston Beer and Weihenstephan wanted it to be something entirely different, and in that they have succeeded. 

Samuel Adams Infinium Ale retails in the $20 a bottle range, and at that it may just be a bit overpriced. But what the hell. Wine lovers pay far more extravagant sums for rare and special vintages. Beer lovers have it far better, and make no mistake: this is a rare and special beer. It would pair wonderfully with the holiday bird, work equally well with bright lights and carols on Christmas Eve, and work perfectly to ring in the new year. Sure to return in 2011, Samuel Adams Infinium is not to be missed in 2010 all the same.

And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.

*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.

(B)=Bottled

(D)=Draft



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