The older I get, the more I really like big, big beers. And the older I get, the more those big beers seem to like me, too, since they seem to have a habit of sticking to my waistline. Ah well. Life is too short to drink watery beer, so there you go.

And never could it be said that Left Hand Imperial Stout is a watery beer. Try a bottle. I dare you. You’ll see what I mean. Maybe it’s not as thick and full-bodied as other Imperials, but it’s slightly higher in alcohol than some, and definitely as complex as most.

Don’t take my word for it about it this one, though. Why not head over to Left Hand’s website, http://www.lefthandbrewing.com/, and see for yourself. Designed with the latest in Flash 8.0 technology, you’ll marvel as you watch an amazing 3 dimensional display of beer bottles, labels, and ingredients, presented by one of Colorado’s premier brewers.

Go there forthwith, and see what I mean. It’s a really cool site. But wait until you read the rest of my review first, OK? Because this is really good beer, and I want you know about it. So, let’s crack a bottle open without further ado.

Left Hand Imperial Stout pours to a very dark brownish black color, but it’s not opaque: if you hold it up to the light, the light will shine through and impart a reddish brown tinge to the brew. I usually look for an imperial stout to be opaque, jet black and allowing no light to pass through. So this had me worried.

The head formation was good, a light tan colored one formed atop the brew, and a sniff revealed an enticing anisette aroma. I took my first sip. The body of the beer was, as I suspected from the light color, a bit lighter than I would like for an imperial stout. I’m looking for a rich, full bodied firmness in the style, and here, I didn’t get that, though I did get more body than most beers will provide.

The flavor profile did not disappoint. Roasty, chocolaty, packed with delightful flavors: licorice, rum raisin ice cream (Left Hand suggests you try serving over vanilla ice cream, and I agree), candied fruit, plum pudding, spicy gingerbread, and coffee.

The finish is very warming indeed with a big alcohol burn from the 10.4% alcohol content by volume. This gives Left Hand Imperial stout as much alcohol as two bottles of your average brew, so drink gently. I get a little roastiness in the finish, though not a lot of hops.

This would be a great drink to serve before dinner to whet the appetite or after dinner to aid in digestion, but I would hesitate to serve with anything other than perhaps dessert.

I’ll forgive the lighter than normal body in light of the wonderful complexity and parade of flavors that march across the palate.